Making Cloth Pads
Which Style?
Underpants

Fabrics
   - Tops
   - Core
   - Waterproof
   - Backing
On a Budget

Patterns
Design your own
Pattern layout

Construction
   - AIO Hidden Core
   - AIO channels
   - Pocket Pad
   - Base+Insert
   - Fold-up pad
   - Boostable pad
   - Belted pad

 
About Cloth Pads
(At www.clothpads.org) About Cloth Pads
How to use them
Cloth Pad Washing
Pros & Cons
Cloth Pad FAQ
Tips and Help
Where to buy Pads
Starting a Stash
Selling Pads
Cost of Pads
Pad History
Making your own Cloth Pads - Construction
Terms
 
    "Turned and Topstitched" (T&T)
    Refers to the method of making the pads where you put the layers together in a certain order, then sew around the pad leaving a gap through which you turn the pad inside out (which actually becomes the right way), then run a line of stitching around close to the edge, to create a pad with a nice neatly finished edge.
     
    "Overlocked/Serged/Zig Zagged"
    An overlocker or serger is a special sewing machine that cuts the edge of the fabric and sews it at the same time. The stitching covers the edges to stop fraying. You can use the "zigzag" setting on your sewing machine to do a similar thing if you don't have one of those machines. Using one of these machines means you can quickly edge boosters/inserts or pads without needing to T&T
     
For pad making, You will Need:
 
  • Pins, scissors, thread & other sewing supplies you would ordinarily need.
  • Fabrics:
    • Top fabric (such as Flannelette).
    • Absorbent Core fabric (Such as hemp)
    • (Optional) Waterproof liner (Such as PUL)
    • (Optional) Backing fabric (Such as microfleece)
  • If making winged pads you will also need: Velcro, buttons, snaps etc (for fastening the wing closed)
Construction Guides
 
  • Pattern layout - How to lay out your pattern pieces to give efficient cutting

  • Pad with channels - How to make a pad with channel stitching on the top (Core is sewn to the top layer, to give stitching lines on top)

  • Pad with Hidden Core - How to make a pad without channel stitching (core is sewn to an extra layer so there are no stitching lines)

  • Pocket Pad - How to make a Pocket Pad

  • Base+Insert - How to make a Base+Insert style pad

  • Fold-up pad - How to make a Fold-Up pad

  • Boostable pad - How to make a Boostable pad (A non waterproofed pad with a booster that fits underneath it that can be waterproofed or not)

  • Belted pad - How to make a belted pad (a couple of styles)

  • Basic Overlocked/Serged/Zigzagged pad (How to make a basic overlocked/serged wingless pad, also instructions to add wings)

Marking Absorbency
 
If you are making pads with different levels of absorbency, you might like to think about marking them in some way, so that you know which pads are which. You might do what most people do, and make light pads shorter, and heavier pads longer - but if that doesn't suit you then there are some options:
 
    Use stitching - use a decorative top stitching or the stitching you quilt the layers together with, to show absorbency. With a letter "L", "M", etc., a different pattern for each absorbency, or a different number of stitching lines.
     
    Use a label - buy clothing size labels or iron on labels to mark the absorbency. Also useful if you want to have some pads with PUL in them and some without.
     
    Use a different colour - you could use different colours for the levels of absorbency.
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