These pad making patterns are provided here for use by the home sewer to make pads for themselves
These
patterns are for private home use only, and you cannot sell these patterns
or pads made from these patterns. If you do not agree to these terms,
do not download the patterns.
If you
wish to use these patterns for commercial purposes, contact me to discuss
this - obsidian@obsidianstar.net
The patterns
are all in .gif format (an image), and have a size indication on them in
cm and inches (a few only give cm).
If your
pattern isn't printing to scale then try adjusting your settings.
These are mostly in the one size, to edit the patterns, see the Drafting
link above.
(Some
are terrible quality, as they were originally scanned on coloured paper)
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This is a longer copy of the pattern found here This pattern was designed as a 2 part system. You make 2 copies of the pattern, cut one out along the winged pad line, and the other just the inside contoured bit. Trace the patterns onto your fabric but you sew on that traced line. Full instructions on the website given. You can also make this as an AIO pattern by ignoring the contoured part and just using the winged shape, makes a nice shaped pad |
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Worn over a wingless pad to give wings, or for a "tab wing" style pad, where you make a separate wing and contoured wingless pad, and sew the wing to the underside of the pad. If you put 2 snap settings on, the one wing can be worn with different width pads. Make pattern wider if needed. |
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(22cm long) Use this as the top/backing for an AIO pad, the top of a pocket pad, the base for a base + insert pad or a fold-up pad To make a pattern for the back of a pocket pad, use half of this pattern, and add about 1.5cm extra for overlap (more for TT) |
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(28.5cm long) Use this as the top/backing for an AIO pad, the top of a pocket pad, the base for a base + insert pad or a fold-up pad To make a pattern for the back of a pocket pad, use half of this pattern, and add about 1.5cm extra for overlap (more for TT) |
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(approx 27cm long) Use this as the top/backing for an AIO pad, or use it as the top of a pocket pad, or the base for a base + insert pad. |
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( 33cm when T&T) Use this as the top/backing for an AIO pad, or use it as the top of a pocket pad, or the base for a base + insert pad. The pattern includes a "pocket end" which is an optional piece to use if you wish to make a base + insert pad, where inserts sit ontop of a base and tuck into pocket ends. Ignore this piece if making an AIO or pocket pad. This is broken in 2 pieces to fit on the page, the extra part can also be used as an end pocket if making a base+insert type of pad. |
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Pattern for making a pocket pad back to go with the Pad Shape #2 Use the top pieces from the above patterns, and use 2 of these pad backs (which are a little wider than half the back, so they overlap slightly), for one pocket pad. |
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Guide to making a belted cloth pad |
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Guide to making a "Fold-up" pad. This is a pad that has a winged section that has no sewn in absorbency, with a rectangular piece sewn to the winged section, which folds up to create a quick drying pad. You can make it so the winged side or the folded side touches the skin. The instructions for this match the pad pattern shapes marked #1 |
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This is a wingless pad that has a wider front & back, with narrower crotch. The hourglass shape helps keep the pad in place. You could use the wing pattern above to add wings to this pad, by sewing the hourglass onto the wing. |
22cm/8.5" 28cm/11" |
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HUGE pad. You shouldn't leak at night with this on. Covers the back and front with plenty of pad. You could use the wing pattern above to add wings to this pad. You could use this shape to make a belted pad too (see belted pad instructions above) |
35cm/14" |
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This is my old winged pad pattern. It has a longer back to give coverage (or flip it to have long at the front). (The scanner chopped about 2cm off the back.. you can copy the shape of the front for a nicer look than the flat end was anyway). |
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This was an experimental design. To create an hourglass pad with wings. In order to get the right curve, you need a split wing. The angles at the base of the split wings might be hard to sew, so you may need to round them off a little. |
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No seam allowance in this pattern, as this was designed for overlocking/serging. (Add seam allowance if T&T) Approx 21.5cm long, 15cm wingspan, 7cm widest point of front |
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These have no seam allowance Approx measurements - wing width is tip to tip, front measurement is at widest point. |
14cm long, 11.5cm wing, 5cm front Pattern
#2
Pattern
#3
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Pad
Pattern Stencil
I have
an idea for making an easy to sew pattern.... :) When you have
a pattern you like, get some stiff cardboard or plastic to make permanent
template from. Mark the sewing line of the pattern onto the template,
in broken lines. Then mark out the cutting line out. So you
have this effect:
Use a
craft knife to cut out the broken lines, so that you have a stencil.
Then when you trace out your pattern onto the fabric, you mark both the
line you need to sew on, and the line you need to cut out. So each
pad should line up perfectly, and your sewing should always be neat and
even.
(You
would only need the sewing guide traced onto the top piece)
These Cloth Pad making patterns
and instructions are copyright Obsidian 2003-2009
And may not be copied or redistributed
without permission
www.clothpads.org