Making your own Cloth Pads - AIO Pads
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Choose your Version
Hidden Core layer (Optional channel lines) | Core sewn to top layer (Channel lines) | Overlocked/Serged/ZigZag

Method #1 - Hidden Core Layer

1).  Cut out your fabrics.  You will need one piece for your top (something you'll want against your skin), one piece for your backing (something that won't let the pad slip, is decorative or waterproof), one piece for your hidden stabilising layer (flannelette or cotton), your absorbent layers (eg 2 layers hemp terry) and waterproofing (optional, and this might be the backing).  If you are using PUL as waterproofing you may wish to have a backing of a different fabric, and hide the PUL inside as the shiny side of PUL can be difficult to sew..... but leaving it exposed makes the pad thinner and more flexible.

I like to cut the hemp core pieces so that each is slightly smaller, so that when sewn together they make a slight step effect, rather than a solid block of core, as i find it feels nicer.  So I startwith one that fills some of the pad shape, but comes in at the crotch, then I cut 1-2 strips to go down the centre of this.

For each pad you should have:
1 top layer in the pad shape (eg velour)
1 full core layer in the pad shape (eg flannelette)
1 -3 Core pieces in a smaller oblong shape (eg hemp)
1 full layer PUL (optional)
1 full layer backing (optional)
 

2).  Lay the largest core piece centred on your flannelette full core piece.  Zig zag or straight stitch around the edges of the core so that it is sewn to the flannelette core all around. If zig zagging, let the stitches run off the core, so that the edges are covered and can't lift up.  If you have additional layers, sew them on the same way on top of the first layer.  Laying them out this way gives the absorbency where needed, and leaves the pad feeling as thin as possible.  You don't have to be neat - this is why we're hiding it inside the pad.

3). I like to sew lines of stitching down the core.  This compresses the core, making it less bulky. To do this run lines of straight or zigzag up and down the core.

4).   To add channel lines to this pad, draw the lines you wish to follow on the side of the flannelette that does not have the core sewn to it.  I find it easier to get a neat effect if you mark these out, and then sew along the lines you made.  So...Lay the flannelette core piece (core side down) onto the top piece of the pad (which is good side down).  So you should have the good side of the top facing out, and the drawn on side of the flannelette facing out.   Sew your channel lines following your markings, and you will end up with the flannelette core sewn to the top piece, with the sewn on terry/hemp core hidden between the 2 layers. You can make these channel lines straight or make a pattern with them for interest.

5).  Place the pieces down in the following order: Waterproofing (if separate), backing (right side up), top layer (right side down). If hiding the PUL put it wrong (shiny) side up, as it can "stick" to the machine and be difficult to sew. You may pin these together if you find it easier to sew pinned. On a menstrual pad (unlike a nappy/diaper) you should not find the pad gets anywhere near full enough to leak through a few little pin holes, but some people don't like to risk it and prefer to use bobby pins, hairclips, pegs, or my favourite - mini craft pegs.  Try to keep pin holes to the seam allowance if using them though. If your waterproofing is fleece - it must be the backing - you can't cover it.  So if not having a separate backing - just have the PUL/Fleece with good side up (yes, PUL with shiny side down)

5).  Sew a straight stitch around all these layers, leaving the section open with which to turn the pad out the right way.  I find a straight area, like the wing, to be a good place to leave a gap.  You may like to then do a zig zag stitch also to prevent the edges fraying (Do this as close to the edge as possible, you can even let the stitches go off the edge of the fabric.)  Turn the pad using the gap you left.  To do this, take somewhere (like the front end of the pad) and poke it out the hole you left, and continue so its all out through the hole.  A pen or chopstick is good for getting into the wings and other areas to poke it all out so its nice and even and flat.

6).  At the opening you left, fold the edges under so they are inside the pad and leaving a neat edge that is in line with the rest of the pad.  Fold enough in so that it won't fray.  Pin this down if you need to. You can sew this down on its own, but to keep everything together, and to make the pad look a little neater, I like to run a top stitch line all around the pad.  To do this, run a line of straight stitching about 1.2cm(1/4 inch) or less away from the edge, all around the pad.  You can use this stitch to close the gap too.  Start with where the opening is to sew it closed.  If done neatly you may not be able to tell where the pad was sewn closed once finished as it will all look like the topstitching.  Even though this is sewing through the waterproofing, it should not make a difference so close to the edges of the pad.

7). Now, just add snaps or some other fastener to the wings, and you're all set.

1). Cut out all your pieces, but you won't need the extra full layer core piece.

2).  Take your core pieces (if having more than one layer) and sew them together.  If you want to add the lines to compress it, you can.  Then take the top pad piece and lay this down (good side down) and put the core on top of this.  Sew around the edge of the core, sewing it directly onto the top layer.  You can do fancy stitching on it if you like.

3). Lay out your pad pieces much like the other version, except your top piece will now have the core sewn to it...

4). Sew around it, and finish off like the other guide.

With an Overlocker/Serger, remember if you have a differential feed, that for cottons/PUL backing, it should be set at 1, but for fleece/wool backed pads, you'll probably want it on 2, so that you don't get a wavy edge.

Making the pad this way you can have a pad made of just layers of terry or flannelette, (or you can include  waterproofing and backing), so you do not need to have a separate top layer. Your wings will feel thinner if you sew the core onto a hidden layer, or only the top layer - rather than making the whole pad from several layers of thick fabric though.  If you want to have the channel lines, sew these as for the turned and topstitched instructions, then lay the top piece ontop with good side up.

So that you aren't trying to cut through all the layers of the pad, you can cut the core layers out slightly smaller so that they catch in the sewing, but aren't cut.

If you want to save fabric, you can cut wingless pad shapes, and some wings from different fabric, and overlock the pad with the wing pieces underneath, so you have wings without the cutting out hassles.