Making Cloth Pads
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Underpants

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   - Tops
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   - Waterproof
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Design your own
Pattern layout

Construction
   - AIO Hidden Core
   - AIO channels
   - Pocket Pad
   - Base+Insert
   - Fold-up pad
   - Boostable pad
   - Belted pad

 
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Making your own Cloth Pads - Base + Insert Pads
These are just a really thin pad base (Waterproofed or not) with straps (left) or pocket (right) ends that hold an insert on top of the pad base. The base can also be made with snaps instead (or velcro), to allow the inserts to snap onto the base and not need straps or pocket ends.
You can make the base out of anything you like, and it can be waterproofed or non-waterproofed.
 
If you'd like a waterproof base I would recommend something like PUL topped with microfleece or suedecloth. or ripstop nylon with microfleece - which will allow you to replace the inserts and leave the same base on if you wish, because the blood should not absorb into the microfleece, so if you change the inserts befpre they soak all the way through, there should be little blood on the base.
 
If you would prefer no waterproofing, then you can use something like flannel/flannelette, flat cotton, cotton drill or denim (thicker fabrics like denim will give the base more stability). If you'd like the base to be absorbent too you could use hemp or bamboo fleece/terry.
 

A T&T base with pocket ends made from denim, with hemp fleece insert.
 
Straps, Snaps or Pocket ends
Some of the patterns on my pattern page include the patterns for the pocket ends. If using a pattern that doesn't include the pocket ends, all you need to do is copy the end shape of the pad for about 1.2-2 inches. Making the pocket ends out of something stretchy like jersey or microfleece makes putting the inserts in easier and you shouldn't even need to edge them (and microfleece can wipe clean if you bleed onto the pocket ends). The disadvantage with pocket ends is that it can be difficult to stuff the end of the insert into the pocket part, and all the inserts have to be exactly the right size to fit in. To make a base with pocket end, simply cut out the pieces you need, edge the straight edge of the pocket part if needed, then place this on the pad ends and sew/overlock/serge around the edges of the pad to sew them on.
 
If you'd like straps, you can use elastic, ribbon, strips of microfleece or jersey (or anything you like). "Rick rack" is sometimes suggested, but I've seen people comment that the rick rack can roll up and be uncomfortable. Treat the ends of the straps to stop it fraying if you need to (burn, turn over and stitch etc. - although burned ribbon edges may feel scratchy when the pad is overlocked/serged/zigzagged and you may cut them off with the machine) and place them on the base in the position you want them. You can sew them into the seam allowance, then overlock/serge/zigzag around the edge of the pad, or you can sew them on as you edge the pad without separately sewing them on first. The advantage of straps is that the inserts can be longer than the base and overlap if needed.

Snapped (or velcro) Version
The disadvantage of a snapped version is that you can't use more than one insert at a time, so you are limited in absorbency, however you could make shorter boosters that will fit under the snapped on insert (short enough to slide in between the snaps) that could offer more absorbency. To make your pad snap-on, you might want to make yourself a template for the snap positions. That way you'll know that the snaps will be in exactly the same position in every pad you make - so you can mix and match them around. Sew your pad base up and then mark out the position of the snaps and apply them. Then cut out your inserts, but before sewing them up, apply the snap to the bottom layer of the insert, then sew/overlock the insert up, so that the top of the snap is hidden. If using sew-on press studs or velcro, you could do this after sewing the inserts up.
 
Turned & Topstitched base
If you can't Overlock/serge around the edges of the pad, you can use bias binding or Fold-over-elastic (FOE) or you can make a turned & topstitched version. For the T&T version, you'll need 2 pad shapes and 4 pocket ends.
 

 
Start by sewing the straight edge of the pocket ends together (right sides together), then fold them over so right sides are out and sew a top stitch.
 

 
Lay the pocket ends on each end of one of the winged pad pieces. You can use stickytape to keep them in the right place if you don't want to risk sewing over pins. Make sure they are straight or you'll end up with wonky pocket ends (which will still work, but won't look as nice)
 

 
Then place the backing piece on top with right side down - then sew around this, leaving a gap to turn the pad, then turn it, and you should end up with your base looking nice and neat.
 

 

 

To make the Inserts
There are 2 main types of insert - a fold-up ("trifold" or "bifold").. or a "shaped" insert (as shown in the denim pad) which is the shape you need, with no folding.
 
A "trifold" insert is one that is folded into 3 to be used. This is 3 times as wide as it needs to be and the same length (or just a bit shorter if you're using pocket ends) than the pad is long. You can combine several inserts to make up the absorbency you need, but as a guide 3 layers of flannel(flannelette) becomes 6 layers when folded and would be suitable for light to medium flow. One layer of terry becomes 3 layers which is suitable for medium to heavy flow.

A "Bifold" is folded in half, so would be twice the width you need. This could be useful if you don't need the thickness of 3 layers of fabric.
If making pocket ends, you might want to consider making your fold-up inserts a bit differently. You would cut a piece of something like terry a bit shorter than you want the insert to be, and then a layer of flannel/flannelette the right length - then sew the terry to the flannel, so that the flannelette layer extends the ends of the terry. That way you're only putting the flannel part into the pocket ends, not trying to stuff the entire thickness in.
 
To make a shaped insert, make an oblong or contoured shape as long as (or just a little shorter) than the pad is. You can have a more curved shape with this design than the trifold will allow - meaning you can have a narrower crotch and flared ends to the pad. You could use something like hemp/bamboo/cotton terry or fleece, and you could top them with flannel/flannelette or velour or flat cotton for a nice look. If making the pocket or strap kind, just get your layers together (I'd recommend 2 layers terry/fleece, or 2 layers terry/fleece with a nice topping) and overlock/serge/zigzag around the edges. If making the snap-on style, you might want to apply the snap to the bottom layer of the insert only, so that the top is smooth and no snap top is visible.
 
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